Saturday 8 February 2014

A day in the life

00:05, Friday 7th February

That's it, over and out and to bed now, sleepy. The glass of wine with the skype convo has kicked in and relegated the shift-work adrenaline to second place in my head. Thursday is but a memory, work is done for another day, thoughts are jumbling around, jumbled and dreaming now.

09:00

'... say hello, go say hello Mosey, go on.' Urgh, I'm not ready to wake up, and roll over to ignore the dog nosing at me from the side of the bed. He licks my leg and noses towards me, then trots away to something more interesting. I've been awake four or five times already today: half-remembered dreams leaving me disorientated, bolt upright in bed, trying to understand the half truths of my right brain.

11:00

Ok body, brain needs coffee now. One-two, ... . Try again. One, two, three, my legs swing round and plant themselves insecurely on the carpet. A push, a stumble, fumbles for clothes then glasses that make no difference to my sleep-encrusted eyes. I wash my face then sip carefully at the coffee before me. It's instant and not nearly as strong as usual - damn not having proper grounds today. Annie puts some hot Nutella-covered muffins down on the table and I'm grateful this isn't a morning she's over-tired too.

11:45

Morning's almost up as we head out. First stop is a coffee shop in Victoria Park East, Antz Inya Pantz. We've bought our last three bags of grinds from there, but last time I was pre-caffeinated and got whole beans instead. After rectifying my mistake and sucking down a cold one (of coffee: it's still just morning after all) it was gone midday. 

12:30 

At the supermarket (Coles, Victoria Park's 'Park Centre') we got limes, grapes, cous cous and an assortment of mundanities like cling film and marg. Our reward for our domestic chores: an apple and walnut scroll from Brumby's. Yum! 

13:20

Driving back along Mill Point Road, we swung off slightly early to get some smoked fish for a salad lunch from South Perth Seafoods. I've a soft spot for hot-smoked salmon from the Fin and Flounder on Broadway in Hackney, but, and I'm sure you can all appreciate my middle-class woe at this point, haven't seen it at all on my travels. True to form, although there was hot smoked whole trout (just not the same) they only had normal (cold) smoked salmon (alas! We bought some anyway). The fishmongers stock was, by a vast majority, frozen, though the range was impressive, and not at all unreasonable in price. I'd still rank Clayton's butchers as my preferred local shop, though.

14:00

Annie has made a cous cous salad with some of the salmon and a piece of halloumi on the side, which I demolish hungrily, washing it down with a freshly ground Bolivian 'Jacoba' coffee from my aeropress.

14:20

Simon prompts us to review the voucher book they have for activities and day trips around Perth. I like the look of sea kayaking out of Ningaloo, though admittedly that's not in Perth but quite a drive up the coast, and Annie noticed a couple of good deals on wine tours in the local wine region of Swan Valley, and even one by boat.

14:22

I'm due in to work at 17:00 today, but then my phone beeps twice:

"Hi Thomas sorry tsunami is not busy you may have off today. Thank you"

Woohoo, day off.

14:30

Annie's work hasn't been cancelled, though we didn't get our hopes up too much. Her shift starts at 4pm, but we've some washing up to do and the time quickly disappears into the temporal morass that is domesticity.

15:30

We're almost ready to leave: Annie for work, me for a first visit to the driving range of the local public golf course. It's really close, and it will be good to see if I can hit the ball on grass any better than on the scrub of the Nullabor.

15:50

I visit the Angelo Street branch of ANZ, my bank, to pay in my cash-in-hand wages and get receipts for the quantities to go with the photos of my wage packets. If the tax man here is anything like the one at home, I doubt they'd be happy with me simply announcing the cash figure (without documentation) on my end of year tax return.

16:25

Why is there so much traffic?! It's taken me 30 minutes to go 3 kilometres. The Aussies clock off early, that must be it. I've just arrived at the golf course and see another text from work:

"Hi Tsunami staff, we organised the schedule this coming valentines day on Feb. 14 Friday, we would like to remind you all that everyone will be free to work with us on that day. Many thanks."

As with many things said at work, this needs some clarification, and it turns they should really have just sent something simple like: 'we need all of you to work on valentines day.' That would be much easier.

17:15

Balls hit, divets dug, now that was quite fun. My hand is starting to suffer from friction burns, so time to leave the land of pristine green grass and head back to the parched outside. There was some rather silly golf dress on display, but the people were friendly and it was a lot more welcoming than on our appearance at the Kalgoorlie golf club at the end of the Nullabor Links. Wow that did make us feel a bit uncomfortable!

18:10

After letting a very friendly Mosey back into the house, I wonder what to make for tea, or if we should go out.

18:20

I look at the events for the Perth Festival, which starts today and lasts a few weeks. It's not very centralised, but I note there's an outdoor cinema showing of the current Robert Redford film about a shipwrecked yachtsman that I know Annie is keen on. It's unallocated, unreservable seating so we might as well buy tickets on the door. There's even a pizza place as part of the venue, somewhere over the river on the University of Western Australia campus. 'Sorted, let's go there', I think.

18:35

OMFG so many ants. And not just the super small worker ants, there are the bulbous angry protecting ants too, hundreds of them going right into... the... food... cupboard. Urgh, nasty, time for ant genocide.

The spray does the trick, and soon nothing is moving. I spray some more, then follow the route back to the window frame with ant-trail masking spray. I have to leave it for a little while, there's just too many of the buggers to deal with right now.

18:50

Ok, I'm a bit calmer now, and wipe them all away, clean the cupboard, respray, done.

19:00

I grab the esky from our room and gather picnic supplies for the movie: diet coke, popcorn, a couple of beers, a bunch of grapes. It all gets packed in with ice blocks, and I scramble to get a blanket, some jumpers (it can be almost chilly at night sometimes) and find where exactly the venue is and where to park.

19:23

Quick, time to leave. Annie should be outside work in 5 mins, which will just give us time to get to the venue - she can call the pizza order in en-route.

19:30

Annie waits with one of her Italian colleagues, Gracie, who cut her finger cleaning the deli slicer. It's a deep cut, so plans change and we're heading back to the house to get the first aid kit. The 'supervisor' had left her with tissue paper which does nothing to staunch the flow of blood.

19:45

The cut is too deep and wide for butterfly stitches, so Annie wraps it with dressing pads as best she can and we cover it all with primapore tape. Nicci and Simon arrive back and immediately start to look for out-of-hours medical centres.

19:55

Nicci finds an open doctors in Belmont who will see Gracie when we arrive. To the car! I drive us along the 4-lane highway (with a very slow speed limit of 60kph / 38mph), Annie directs us to the clinic.

20:10

I plonk myself in the waiting room and pick up a Time magazine from October 2013. Annie helps Gracie complete the medical forms.

20:40

I read an article by Bill Clinton about why he's positive about the future of the world. Gracie gets called through to the doctor

21:10

I read an article about coffee shop variations across the world. The girls are nowhere to be seen. I look for places we can get something to eat, but we're running out of time for Solo Pizza (10pm close), which has the best reputation around.

21:30

As if there's causation, almost the moment I drop the fully-read Time on to the pile, they emerge from the inner sanctum. Gracie has a bandaged finger, three stitches on a local anaesthetic and a tetanus jab. We have to wait ten minutes, in case the wound re-opens? Gracie has a doctors note and can't work tomorrow, so Annie and Gracie talk through what Gracie has to say to the boss on the phone.

21:40

Equipped with the word 'stitches' and the confidence to tell the boss she can't start at 8am tomorrow, Gracie makes the call. Annie gets roped in to going in to work early, and after fighting claims of 'another holiday!', Gracie is all set. Now for some food, but not until we've raided the picnic stash for an M&Ms sugar boost.

21:48

At the lights, I notice another text from work: 

"Hi Thomas tsunami is not busy again you may have off tomorrow Saturday again. Thanks"

Bonus! Wait - I need hours to get paid. Hmm.

21:55

You can do u-turns at traffic lights here, and crossing three lanes from a side-road isn't frowned upon as it would be at home. I'm glad therefore that the traffic is light as we somehow navigate to the wide array of fast food outlets which, along with motels, provide an unbroken neon edge to this wide highway. Dominos had no seating, so we decide on McDonalds, despite it being on the other side of the road. I don't want to re-park, so we jog across and are soon in the comforting warm glow of the 24 hour 'restaurant'.

22:05

We share stories. Gracie talks of a trip to Paris with a boyfriend, also Italian, on which, due to a dislike of French food, they ate at McDonalds every day for a week. Apparently, croissants just aren't as good in Paris as in Sicily, and once you've had burgers a few nights in a row you start to order the salad meals as your first choice!

22:25

We drive Gracie back to her flat by the zoo, and Annie swaps numbers with her. She has to have the stitches out on Wednesday, so we can give her a lift as long as I'm not at work (with the car).

22:50

Annie and I arrive home after what has been quite a long day. I eat grapes and continue to write this, Annie relaxes with a dose of Buzzfeed. We discuss what to do tomorrow after Annie's shift, but we don't know when she'll finish. Maybe the film will still be on? Otherwise there must be some music or dancing. We decide we'll decide tomorrow: my favourite type of decision.

23:40

To bed. What an unexpected turn of events today. I thought it would be a portrait of both our work days, but it does show the changeability of life on zero-hours contracts (ha, I scoff - there's nothing official or contracted about my job!)

Sunday 2 February 2014

Stepping back in time: Yanakie to Tidal River: A seagull stole oursandwich

Let's rewind from the last post. Before Perth, back across the Nullabor, long before the Eyre Peninsula and even the other side of Melbourne, we were spending the night in the village of Yanakie.

It was a nervy night for Annie, who was rather put out by the cockroach and large spider (a huntsman? We're not sure) that fled the barbecue plate while cooking dinner. The night of Saturday 26th October 2013 was windy, which was not helped by Yanakie's position on a low isthmus protruding into the notoriously rough Bass Straight and the lack of effective wind breaks. In keeping with the theme of the last week, it was raining, with yet more rain forecast for the approaching week. 

We woke to broken skies of rays of sunshine blasting through cumuli, a brisk southwesterly and great promise. Just South of Yanakie is the control gate for the Wilson's Promontory National Park, then we were driving through pristine bush on a ribbon of tarmac unsurpassed in quality, and all the more out of place for it. Annie was on animal spotting duty, but our late start probably didn't help the poor showing. The drive was excellent, a really windy road that would be great to time trial, though crashing in a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Oz National Park probably wouldn't be appreciated. Just in case I don't mention it when describing something specific in Wilson's Prom, the views are amazing. All of them. From close-ups of dense, seemingly untouched bush to magnificent saddle-point vistas, it's just beautiful. 

Arriving in the only permanent settlement in park, Tidal River, we gawped at the enormity of the camping area, deciding to pitch near to the amenities to put some food together. We fought the wind all the while, watching that the filling didn't fly out of the sandwiches, then as Annie turned to me for the mayo, the bugger swooped. A cacophony ensued as the flock of seagulls fought over the top half of our sandwich, not even dispersing as Annie angrily chased after them with a tea towel. We soon realised that the surplus of campsites needed to be investigated, and relocated away from the amenities where the seagulls (and rainbow lorikeets) had picked up their taste for chips and, apparently, ham sandwiches. 

Wilson's Promentory is a tropical desert island, or at least it might be. It was quite clear to us that while there were several activities available to us (fishing, swimming, surfing), all we wanted to do was explore. Our first day saw us meander through the campsite, over the watercourse and then brought us to a complete stop when I brought Annie's attention to the badger-sized animal immediately to our right. Talk about tame - this wombat was 5 feet away and couldn't care less about us as it scruffled for tasty greens on the side of the path. As Annie took photos (and I took photos for Annie of her with the wombat in the near background), a few more people came by, but the wombat didn't care, and kept ignoring that it was meant to be both shy and semi-nocturnal. What a badass. Seeing the wombat sustained us for most of the rest of the day,  though that isn't to say that Squeaky Beach was actually quiet, or that the views weren't inspiring. Our path took us over the headland to the next bay, with great viewpoints, down to one of the finest beaches I've seen, to lunch on remarkable rocks (not The Remarkable Rocks, they're on Kangaroo Island in SA), then back over the hill to the campsite. Squeaky Beach gets it's name from the sound of ultra-fine quartz sand rubbing together when walked on - a funny sensation, though actually replicated in several places along the coast in Oz. Coming back over the hill, the importance of fire to the Australian landscape became apparent. We saw burnt stumps, but also half-burnt trees that were quite alive, burnt tree grasses redoubled in growth and many burnt hollows that were obviously housing some form of wildlife or other. From a lovely granite outcrop, the landscape could easily be divided along recent fire lines - the fewer burnt limbs above the thicker the canopy, the longer ago the most recent burn.

Old fire lines are really obvious from above
 A nice feature on the walk (sadly amiss in many other places in Oz) was the presence of informative signs that related the lives of the traditional owners of the land and how they used some of the plants, along with details on the plants themselves. I liked learning that the tree grass flower sap hardens as a resin used for attaching spear heads, amongst other uses. 


Annie getting up close to the first wombat

He was quite happy with close-ups
 

The revelation of the evening of 27th October was that Wilson's Prom doesn't just have the one fearless wombat, rather several burrows worth of them, including a burrow right in the middle of the campsite. Stop! I know what you're going to say, and don't worry - Annie took enough photos of them to last a trip to the other side of the world, almost. After a sunset stroll on the beach, we also saw several bunnies (cue mixed feelings) then - get this - a deer. I can understand bunnies managing to thrive, even in a National Park, but deer? Deer are surely the easier feral creature to hunt/capture/remove, and I've not seen any others at all across Australia.

{one of the campsite locals}

We extended our stay in Wilson's Prom to two nights, allowing us time to scale Mount Oberon, with silly chanting and exercises on the way up the (rather dull) forest track, though unfortunately the good weather from day 1 decided not to stay with us and we reached the summit in cloud. We kept getting smug looks from the predominantly German walkers descending as we climbed. They had obviously made more of the "a few showers" weather forecast than we had, though in our defence that seems to be the only description Victorians know for anything from vaguely threatening cloud cover to all-out torrential downpours lasting several hours. Never mind, we're British, and a little rain was hardly going to keep us from our sandwiches.
In the clouds, Mt Oberon.
 
Oh, we saw emus when we were driving out. Nice.
Overcast, yes. Stunning, also yes.